A tale of two whisky heroes
The earliest recorded Japanese whiskies were counterfeit spirit drinks created for new enthusiasts of whisky at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was not until the 1920s that anyone attempted to make real whisky in Japan.
It was Taketsuru Masataka, the son of a sake maker, who became the first Japanese expert in Scotch whisky making. His journey began in 1918 when he was sent to Scotland (by his employer at an industrial alcohol company) to learn how to make real whisky. For two years Taketsuru immersed himself in Scottish malt and grain whisky production, taking detailed notes and photographs at every stage.
In truth Taketsuru was turned away by some suspicious distillers who feared his work to be nothing more than industrial espionage, but others welcomed his refreshing enthusiasm and willingness to learn. After some English lessons, a whirlwind romance resulting in marriage, and stints at three distilleries, the plan was to use his detailed notes to begin creating real whisky in Japan. However, on his return to Japan at the end of 1920, economic conditions had deteriorated so badly that the project was shelved.
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Meanwhile our second folk hero Torii Shinjiro, who became the founder of Suntory, was planning to start his own whisky distillery. In 1923 he hired Taketsuru to help him build it. The distillery, close to Kyoto, was named Yamazaki and was modelled almost entirely on Taketsuru’s notes. By 1924 the distillery was complete, and distilling began. When Suntory Shirofuda, the first bottling from the distillery was released in 1929, the adverts explained that they had created ‘a real fine Scotch Whisky of Japanese origin’. They also detailed how they had ‘sent our expert to Scotland to obtain the fullest information in connection with the distilling process’. However, the first ever Japanese whisky was far from an overnight success, because of its poor quality and high price.
Back in Scotland, news of a Japanese whisky rocked the blenders and distillers. Was this their evidence that the amiable Taketsuru really had been a spy after all?
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The creative rivalry
When the partnership between Torii and Taketsuru ended, a new creative rivalry began, one that outlived them both. Taketsuru ventured off on his own in search of a location that more closely resembled Scotland’s geography and climate. He had concluded that if he were ever to produce perfect whisky he would need to replicate every detail of Scotch whisky production. So he built his distillery, Yoichi, in the very Scottish-like climate of Hokkaido. He founded Yoichi Distillery in 1934 and began what eventually became Nikka Whisky.
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Post-war rebranding
In the post-war years, domestic whiskies became progressively more popular in Japan, and sales grew rapidly right up to the 1970s. Whisky bars proliferated and profits did too. Japanese whisky distillers and blenders became increasingly skilled, production (and competition) increased, and the drive for improved quality began to reap its own rewards as well as bringing challenges.
Japanese whiskies had been exported overseas since the 1960s but in the main they were promoted, and still perceived as, a novelty drink, a ‘Japanese Scotch’. Exports remained small throughout the 1970s and 1980s and while some Scottish distillers sensed a competitive threat to the Scotch industry, excess Scotch was nevertheless being shipped in bulk to Japan, to be used to improve the taste and reputation of the domestic product.
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Turn of the century fortunes
The international perception of Japanese whisky transformed at the beginning of the 21st century. Japanese whisky, so often compared to Scotch, so indebted to its Scottish heritage, became a distinctive entity in its own right. Japanese whiskies began to win international awards, with expert judges rating their elegance and aromas highly when tasted blind alongside Scotch. Whisky enthusiasts discovered that some of the most impeccably produced whiskies in the world were being made in Japan and this news began to filter through to mainstream consumers.
The Japanese whisky industry was still dominated in the early 21st century by Suntory (memorably featured in 2003’s Lost in Translation), and to a lesser extent Nikka. There were, however, other distilleries operating under the radar, the most famous example being Karuizawa Distillery which opened in 1955 and closed in 2000, just in time to miss the rewards of the Japanese whisky boom. Its whiskies, once unfashionable and unwanted, now sell for thousands of pounds.
The 2010s saw international demand for Japanese whisky escalate rapidly. Enthusiasm was further boosted by international critical acclaim of Japanese TV show Massan (2014-2015), a love story based on the lives of Taketsuru Masataka and his Scottish wife Jessie Roberta ‘Rita’ Cowan.
Almost a hundred years after the first Japanese distillery was founded, there was new confidence in Japanese whisky, but with that came greater scrutiny.
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The riddle: when is a whisky made in Japan not a Japanese whisky?
Amid a broader move towards transparency, with distilleries recognizing the attractions of experimenting with more flavourful heritage and locally cultivated barley varieties, in 2021 The Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association’ (JSLMA) announced new ‘Standards for Labelling Japanese Whisky’ to clearly define Japanese whisky.
Always check the label
For a bottle to be labelled ‘Japanese whisky’ it must contain whisky distilled, aged, and bottled entirely in Japan, it must be made from malted grains and water sourced from Japan, and the spirit must be aged in wooden casks for a minimum of three years.
There are specific rules about production too, but the important thing is that consumers can now easily identify a ‘Japanese whisky’ and differentiate it from basic flavoured spirit ‘made in Japan’, or a ‘world whisky’ containing imported bulk spirit (for instance from Canada or Scotland). Despite the guidelines being voluntary they have been adopted by all association members for their whiskies bottled for export.
The future of Japanese whisky
Today Japan is reaping the benefits of one hundred years of diligence and dedication to whisky, and distillers are skilfully creating their own new traditions and distinctive characters.
As recently as 2000 there were only a handful of distilleries in Japan. Now there are well over 100, and there are likely to be twice as many licenced distilleries in the next decade. The history of whisky in Japan is a tale of craft, culture, dedication and excellence. The future of Japanese whisky, built on these unwavering precepts, will ensure ever more recognition and admiration throughout the world.
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In our online shop, explore a selection of Japanese whisky, accompanied by a range of elegantly crafted drinkware.
About the author
Isabel Graham-Yooll is a seasoned spirits professional dedicated to guiding readers through the complexities of old and rare whisky with spirited commentary on current issues in wine and spirits. With her extensive experience over 25 years, Isabel launched Wisgy, an independently run old and rare spirits authentication and valuation consultancy in 2024.