Morinaga Kunihiko is a fashion designer and founder of the fashion brand ANREALAGE.
After graduating from Waseda University’s School of Social Sciences and the Vantan Design Institute, his work quickly garnered attention, leading to regular showcases at both the Tokyo and Paris Collection.
In 2003, Morinaga founded ANREALAGE, initially focusing on patchwork garment creation before expanding into futuristic fashion design, using advanced technologies like light reflection materials and geometric shapes.
With a central recurring interest in the interplay between reality and unreality, Morinaga has engaged in collaborations across diverse industries and exhibited his works in museums worldwide.
A notable past collaboration saw Morinaga partner with the Italian brand Fendi when they unveiled a joint project at the Milan Collection in 2020. Additionally, he was entrusted with designing the official uniforms for the Japan Pavilion at the Dubai World Expo in 2021. More recently, Morinaga crafted the costumes for Beyoncé’s world tour in 2023.
Design is an act that changes the everyday.
Morinaga Kunihiko
As part of the Design Discoveries exhibition, Morinaga was invited to consider what to include in a collection of Japanese design treasures. He researched and presented haburagin, the ceremonial attire worn by female priestesses in Amami Ōshima, Kagoshima Prefecture.
A gallery of 1 item.
The priestesses, known as noro, have performed rituals for the wellbeing of their community for over 500 years. The haburagin holds particular significance as it is worn by girls aged 12 or 13 during their initial participation in these sacred rites. The rituals are believed to attract both good and evil spirits, with the intricately designed haburagin serving to protect the young participants.
Patchwork material, which has similarities to some of Morinaga’s work, is at the heart of the priestesses’ ceremonial attire. Crafted from a mix of patterned and plain silk and cotton, the garments are made from cuttings sourced from different kimonos.
In the local dialect, habura signifies a butterfly or moth, symbolising the presence of departed spirits. The garment is a patchwork of triangles, with each segment representing a butterfly or moth, thereby forming a coat that invokes the collective strength of the spirit realm to protect its wearer.
Another distinctive feature of the haburagin is its decorative stitching. Alternating between long and short stitches is believed to serve as a protective measure against evil. This distinctive stitching technique is primarily applied to openings such as the collar and sleeves, which are thought to be access points for malevolent spirits.
Morinaga is particularly fascinated by the stitching and the philosophy behind it, which extends beyond the practical or decorative: “Places that would normally be stitched only once were stitched twice. This is a small detail but one that holds enormous power and significance. The sense of awe of the supernatural has made this not merely decoration. It is truly a reminder that ‘god is in the details’.”
For Morinaga, the haburagin transcends the conventional understanding of patchwork and elevates it to a new level. It represents clothing design that goes beyond the aesthetic; instead, it embodies a desire for a better life, a prayer originating from a genuine desire to serve others.
Learn more about Morinaga Kunihiko and the haburagin in our exhibition Design Discoveries: Towards a DESIGN MUSEUM JAPAN, on display at Japan House London from 15 May to 8 September 2024.