The culinary heritage of the Ainu, an indigenous people of northern Japan, is distinct from the rest of the Japanese archipelago.
Its key ingredients include locally sourced game and fish, such as deer and salmon, acquired through fishing and hunting. Additionally, seasonal wild plants foraged from the mountains, along with various millets and root vegetables cultivated through farming, are used in many signature dishes.
Imbued with a deep reverence for the sustainable use of resources and the environment, a central principle of Ainu food culture (aynuipe) is the commitment to taking only what is necessary. Particularly when harvesting mountain vegetables, the emphasis is on ensuring the preservation of plant roots. The safeguarding of the biodiversity of forests guarantees not only that food supplies remain sustainable and independent but also contributes to the well-being of local animals.
The core ingredients of popular Ainu dishes predominantly consist of wild vegetables seasoned with fish oil and animal fat.
Soups, known as ohaw and rur, are made from wild onions and other seasonal wild vegetables simmered alongside fish and meats such as deer or bear. Popular ohaw variations include kinaohaw (with wild vegetables), yukohaw (with venison), and cepohaw, which is made with salmon and two locally foraged wild mountain vegetables: fern fronds and dried anemone.
Rataskep dishes, which are reduced and simmered, may contain beans or root vegetables such as potatoes. Sito, dumplings crafted from glutinous millet, are another beloved dish that has been handed down through generations. Other popular dishes include sipuskepmesi, a mixture of boiled millet and rice, and ciporemo, mashed potato with salmon roe. A key source of starch is derived from boiled turep, the bulb of a wild lily.
Plants occupy such a central place in Ainu tradition that place names are frequently drawn from plants that thrive locally. As well as the use of plants in cooking, Ainu tradition includes an understanding of the processing plants for medicinal purposes. For instance, sikerpe, the fruit of the Amur cork tree, is reputed for its effectiveness in treating stomach ailments.
Following a period of decline in Ainu culinary traditions due to assimilationist policies and significant changes in agriculture since the late 19th century, there has been a recent resurgence of interest in Ainu cuisine, including its traditions, ingredients, and techniques. Local organisations like the Biratori Ainu Culture Preservation Association play a vital role in revitalising Ainu culinary heritage. They strive to preserve Ainu food traditions for future generations by conducting Ainu cooking workshops and compiling Ainu recipes.
Enjoy a taste of Ainu cuisine with our step-by-step recipes for sito dumplings, sipuskepmesi (millet and rice), cepohaw (ohaw soup with salmon), or ciporemo (potato with salmon roe).
Learn more about contemporary Ainu people and their lives today through our exhibition Ainu Stories: Contemporary Lives by the Saru River, on display in the Gallery at Japan House London from 16 November 2023 until 21 April 2024. The exhibition is complemented by a rich programme of online and in-person events.