Many forms of Ainu craft traditions are renowned for their intricate patterns, evident on garments as well as utensils and tools, and suitable for both ceremonial and everyday use.
Variations of Ainu patterns often derive their names from nature, such as ayus-noka (thorn pattern), morew-noka (gentle swirl pattern), sik-noka (eye pattern), and ram-ram-noka (fish scale pattern), all of which have been passed down through generations.
Two Ainu crafts have been designated ‘Officially Designated Traditional Crafts’, the only two in Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island. These are the weaving of Nibutani attus, bark-cloth textiles, and the carving of Nibutani ita, wooden trays adorned with intricate carvings.
Embroidery & clothing
In Ainu clothing, patterns are created through embroidery or appliqué stitching. Crafting clothing and fabric art has long been considered an important task for Ainu women, who have passed down designs from mother to daughter. These embroidered patterns, often found on collars, backs and hems of Ainu robes (amip), are not only admired for their aesthetic beauty but are also believed to ward off evil spirits.
Amip robes serve as a vivid expression of Ainu identity and are worn for ceremonies and performances. In Nibutani, a rural area in Hokkaido with a community of just over 300 people of Ainu descent, robes are crafted from attus, a fabric woven from the inner bark fibres of elm (Ulmus lacinata) and linden (Tilia japonica).
The raw material for attus grows in abundance in Hokkaido, particularly in the Saru River basin near Nibutani, where the production of the fabric dates back to the early 18th century. Historically, its durability, breathability and water resistance made the fabric popular as workwear among fishermen.
The cikarkarpe, a cotton robe with embroidered strips, and the kaparamip, a thin indigo robe with white cotton appliqué patterns, are distinct Ainu robe styles. The latter, originating in the late 19th century, involves cutting shapes from a large piece of white cotton, often covering the entire back of the robe.
A gallery of 2 items.
Woodcarving
Ainu woodcarving, deeply rooted in tradition, particularly flourishes in Nibutani with the art of carving wooden plates or trays, known as Nibutani ita.
Originally crafted for serving food, Nibutani ita are carved from walnut or katsura wood and adorned with intricate Ainu patterns like morew (gentle spirals), aynus (thorns), sik (eye shapes), and ram-ram (fish scales). These motifs also embellish small double-edged knives, known as makiri.
This decorative woodcarving tradition not only serves as a vital link in preserving Ainu artistry across generations but also significantly contributes to the local tourism industry in Nibutani. The earliest recorded sales of Nibutani Ainu carvings date back to 1893 when craftsmen began selling carved plates in Sapporo, Hokkaido’s most populous city.
In addition to ita wooden plates, other everyday objects as well as ritualistic items are adorned with intricate patterns. Shaved sticks, known as inaw, play a pivotal role in ceremonies honouring kamuy (Ainu spirit-deities). These inaw, varying in length and thickness, are meticulously crafted using a knife called an inawke-makiri.
Today, craftspeople in Nibutani express their creativity by devising new patterns and crafting items that resonate with modern lifestyles, including wooden cutting boards, pot rests, and shoehorns.
Nibutani Craft Cooperative Association
Established in 1987, the Nibutani Craft Cooperative Association, predominantly comprising artisans from the area, is actively involved in preserving Ainu craft traditions while also innovating contemporary products that integrate Ainu heritage with modern lifestyles. The artisans of the Association play a pivotal role in perpetuating the legacy of Ainu material cultural traditions.
Learn more about contemporary Ainu people and their lives today through our exhibition Ainu Stories: Contemporary Lives by the Saru River, on display in the Gallery at Japan House London from 16 November 2023 until 21 April 2024. The exhibition is complemented by a rich programme of online and in-person events.